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These are the basic techniques in kitesurfing. Once you've mastered them, invent your own moves and tell me about them; the sky is the limit.

Learning to kitesurf is actually easier than learning to windsurf. However, the learning curve is much steeper. For example, one of the first kitesurfing moves you need to learn is water starting, which is a rather advanced technique in windsurfing.

Reviewing another kitesurfer's learning log will actually make learning kitesurfing easier as you can avoid all the frustrations and all the silly mistakes.

1. Kite Piloting, launching and landing

To be a kitesurfer, you have to be a good kite pilot. Practice with a dual-line or a 4-line stunt kite before getting your kitesurf kite (or you use an inexpensive small kite such as the 2.2 m2 C-Quad).

Different kites have different launching, landing and water relaunching techniques. We assume that you can get such information directly from your kite vendor. If you are using one of the most popular kites for kitesurfing: inflatables or foils, you can use the following launching and landing instructions:

Launching Inflatable (on land or snow):

1.      Put the kite down on sand, leading edge toward the wind, one tip of the kite is on the sand the other tip is in the air. The kite looks like a vertical "C" with the leading edge facing the wind.

2.      Fold the kite tip and put enough sand (or snow) on it to keep it from moving around.

3.      Hold the control bar and position yourself such that kite is at the wind window edge respective to your position (the kite is either 85 degrees to the left or the right of you with its leading edge facing the wind).

4.      If you use a 4 line inflatable, adjust your trim strap to put the kite in a depowered mode.

5.      Attach the safety leash to your wrist or harness. Don't hook in or shackle in to your kite until after you have launched you kite and get into deep water.

6.      Pull on the control bar and the line nearest to the ground to unfold the tip and release the kite from the sand.

7.      Pull the top line (the line farthest from the ground) to move the kite up.

Drift Launching Inflatable:

1.      Use this technique if you don't have enough space on the beach to launch your inflatable.

2.      Inflate the kite and put it next to the water (make sure there is nothing on the sand that can damage your kite when you latter on drag it on to the water)

3.      Lay out your line and control bar and make sure they are properly attached with no tangles.

4.      Attach the safety leash to your wrist or harness, hold the control bar and walk into the water.

5.      Keep walking, swimming until you can pull the kite on to the water.

6.      Let the kite drift down wind from you and water launch the kite

Water Relaunching Inflatable:

1.      To water relaunch a 2 line low AR inflatable, simply pull on one line other the other until the kite get into a vertical "C" position with one tip of the kite on the water and the other tip is in the air.

2.      Keep pulling the line which is attached to the tip of the kite nearer to the water until the kite slide toward the edge of the wind window

3.      Pull on the top line (the line attached to the tip of the kite farthest from the water) to launch the kite.

4.      With a very long leading edge and short "battens", a high AR inflatable such as the Naish AR5, ARX kites are likely to crash in a leading edge down position. Due to the large leading edge, the high AR inflatable will refuse to get to into a vertical "C" position needed for launching a low AR type of kite. The only way to get the high AR inflatable to get into the vertical crescent moon position is to get it on its back by swimming toward it; however, in strong wind, the pull of the kite is so strong that makes swimming toward the kite useless as the distance you swim toward the kite is easily absorbed by the pull of the kite. In such case, it is necessary to pull on the middle leader line (which connect to the front lines) of the kite while swimming toward it. After you have pulled in around 2m of the middle leader line, suddenly release it and hold on to the control bar. The kite will immediately get on to its back.

Self-Landing Inflatable in Shallow Water:

1.      If you are hooked in (or shackled in) to the chicken loop, release it before getting in shallow water near land and adjust the trim strap to put your kite in a depowered mode.

2.      It's best to land the kite in shallow water as it is both safer and easier (this method still work on land even thought it is slightly more dangerous)

3.      Move the kite to the the left/right edge of the wind window near or ground (if the safety leash is attached to the left side of the kite then move it to the left edge; other wise, move it to the right edge)

4.      Drop the bar, pull on the safety leash (which should be attached to the left side of the kite - either front line or back line)

5.      Hold the line which the safety leash is attached to and keep walking toward the kite until you catch the leading edge of the kite

6.      Put the kite on the beach, secure it and then grab the control bar and wind the line in.

Self-Landing Inflatable on Land:

1.      If you are hooked in (or shackled in) to the chicken loop, release it before getting in shallow water near land and adjust the trim strap to put your kite in a depowered mode.

2.      Move the kite to the the left/right edge of the wind window near or ground (if the safety leash is attached to the left side of the kite then move it to the right edge; other wise, move it to the left edge)

3.      Drop the bar, pull very fast around 2 or 3 m of the safety leash.

4.      The kite should drop nicely on the ground in the same position where you normally place it (leading edge on the ground, back facing the wind, the wind secures the kite on land)

5.      Hold on to the line where the safety leash is attached to, walk toward the kite and put sand on it.

Launching Foil:

1.      Lay your kite on the ground and put enough sand/snow on its trailing edge to keep it in place.

2.      If you use a closed-cell foil that has pre-inflation valves (such as the New Wave or Jojo Wet), open them now to pre-inflate the kite.

3.      Once the kite is properly pre-inflated, close the pre-inflation valve. Release the lines from you control bar or handles and attach your safety leash to your wrist.

4.      Launch the kite. If you are using a closed cell foil, make sure you maintain the tension on the front lines to let the wind fill the kite for approximately 60 seconds before launching.

5.      If the kite is not completely inflated, move it across the wind window a few times before moving it straight overhead.

Water Relaunch Foil:

1.      Water relaunch a foil is easy. The foil will either crash leading edge down or trailing edge down.

2.      If the leading edge is down, just pull on the brake lines (the center lead line) to reverse relaunch the kite.

3.      If the trailing edge is down, just pull on the control bar to launch the kite.

4.      If the kite is badly mixed up, just wait for the wind to blow the kite in to proper shape before using step 2 or 3 depending on the position of the leading edge and trailing edge.

Landing Foil:

1.      If the foil has proper safety release system, to land a foil simply drop the control bar or handles, the kite will land softy down straight ahead.

After you have received your kitesurf kite, practice with it on land at least a couple times before attempting to kitesurf on the water. The best wind to practice with your kite on land is around 7-10 knots with your small kitesurf kite (around 5 m2 or smaller). 7 - 10 knots is the wind speed where a small kitesurf kite can fly and generate pull but not too much. Also, use shorter lines around 10 to 20 m while practicing on land. You need to master the following (before practicing your kitesurf kite, make sure that you have read and fully understood the safety guidelines):

1.      Turn the kite to the left.

2.      Turn the kite to the right.

3.      Do a number of figure 8's in the left side of the wind window (the figure 8 is slanting 45 degrees; the top is at zenith, the bottom is at the left edge).

4.      Do a number of figure 8's in the right side of the wind window (the figure 8 is slanting 45 degrees; the top is at zenith, the bottom is at the right edge).

5.      Do a number of sine wave patterns (up down up down, etc.) while running to the left

6.      Do a number of sine wave patterns while running to the right.

7.      Make the kite hover at the left edge of the wind window at 45 degree vertically while running to the left.

8.      Make the kite hover at the right edge of the wind window at 45 degree vertically while running to the right.

9.      Lie on the ground with the kite hovering at zenith; dive the kite down to the left and use the kite lift to get yourself to a sitting up position. Do this a number of times.

10.  Lie on the ground with the kite hovering at zenith, dive the kite down to the right and use the kite's lift to get yourself to a sitting up position. Do this a number of times.

1.      Hook in and try to control the kite with only your left hand holding the bar (or the left handle for a 4 line kite).

2.      Hook in and try to control the kite with only your right hand holding the control bar (or the right handle for a 4 line kite).

This may be a good time to try the dead-man safety release system associated with your control device to make sure that it works. Someone may be able to help you there. As a beginner, never attempt to learn how to kitesurf alone without a dead-man safety release system.

2. Kite Power Controlling

Before attempting to kitesurf in the water, you need to understand some of the fundamental techniques about controlling the power of the kite. Lift is proportional to the projected sail/kite surface and the square of the apparent wind speed. Therefore to control the power of the kite, one needs to know to control the projected surface and the flying speed of the kite. There are a number of ways to control the power of a kite. You should understand them all and use the ones that you are most comfortable with.

Projected surface controlling

Projected surface controlling is the method used mostly in traditional sailing (including windsurfing) to reduce the power of the sail by reefing (manually or automatically), by sheeting out or by tilting the sail to windward (in windsurfing) or leeward (boat sailing). This is why traditional sailors (especially windsurfers) tend to go out with a sail size for the bottom end of a given wind condition and then deal with the overpowered situations (by sheeting-out, tilting the sail to windward, etc). Modern windsurfing sails with an "automatic" reefing feature promote this trend even further.

If you are using a 4 line inflatable kite that allows depowering of the kite by pulling or releasing the front lines (or the center leader line which is adjustable by a strap or a "chicken loop") to change the angle of attack (therefore changing the projected surface), practice it now. Fly the kite across the wind window and attempt to depower the kite a number of times to be familiar with the process and feel the reduction in power.

If you are using a 4 line foil kite that allows depowering of the kite by pulling or releasing the center line to change the shape (therefore changing the projected surface) of the kite (such as the Concept Air New Wave), practice it now. Fly the kite across the wind window and attempt to depower the kite a number of times to be familiar with the process and feel the reduction in power.

One of the biggest advantage of the projected surface control method is such that you can lock the kite at a certain angle of attack or projected surface. This feature widen the wind range of the kite and allow the kitesurfer to be more confident to kitesurf in a more powered up conditions (as the kitesurfer can quickly lock the kite into a smaller projected surface in overpowered conditions).

Speed Controlling

Speed controlling is the method to decrease or increase the power of the kite by controlling its flying speed. This feature is uniquely available to kite sailing and often overlooked by many experienced traditional sailors.

Since lift is proportional to the surface and the square of the apparent wind speed. Controlling the speed of the kite likely to be the best way to control the kite power. There are two methods to control the speed of the kite:

1. Use the brake lines
2. Fly the kite

Most 4 line kite (especially ram air foil) will allow you to slow the kite down "drastically" by pulling hard on the brake lines to stall it. The only issue with this method is that when you feel the need to slow the kite down it's often too late (especially for kitesurfing when you normally need much more force than in buggying and "kiteskiing"). Unless you are an experienced power kite pilot, it would be hard to slow the kite with a downward wrist action while it is pulling you with an ever increasing "tremendous" force. An "overpowered" kitesurfer would not be able to slow the kite much and would complain about the "inability" to control the power of the kite in such case.

If you are using a 4 line ram air foil, play with the brake lines now. Try to slow the kite down while it's flying across the wind window a number of times to be familiar with the control and feel the reduction in power.

The other method is the "fly the kite" method. This method is probably the easiest, safest and available to all kites (2 line or 4 line). The principle behind this method is simple. It's difficult to reduce the power of the kite (especially for a 2 line kite) and very easy to increase the power of the kite by just "flying" it. When a kite "flies" across the wind window, it could generate 2, 4 or 10 times the "stationary" force (at the edge of the wind window). Following are the details of this "fly the kite" method:

1. Select a "small" kite that would generate enough pull to sail (or jump if you intend to do so) with wind at the top end of a given wind condition.
2. Use long lines (40 m). Longer lines extend the wind range of the kite. You will be surprised by the difference between a 30 m and 40 m line set.
3. If the wind is at the top end of the range, lock the kite at the forward edge (if the gust is too strong, you may have to "fight" to move the kite there.
4. If the wind is at the middle of the range, fly the kite in a "small" sine wave pattern between 30 - 60 degrees vertically
5. If the wind is at the low end of the range, fly the kite in a "big" sine wave pattern between 10 - 75 degrees vertically

The advantage of this method is such that the kitesurfer is always in control and with a high skill level, the kitesurfer can generate fairly "smooth" continuous power regardless of how fluctuate the wind is (a feast unachievable by any other sailing craft).

Personally I use all of these methods to control the power of my kites whenever it is appropriate. Being in full control of the power of your kite is important as it is both safer and give you more confident to kitesurf in a more powered up conditions (facilitate going upwind and jumping).

3. Body Dragging

Before proceeding with this section make sure you have mastered the following:

1.      You have read and fully understood the safety guidelines

2.      Know how to launch your kite (information from your vendor or section 1 above)

3.      Know how to water launch your kite in shallow water (information from your vendor or section 1 above)

4.      Know how to land your kite (information from your vendor or section 1 above)

5.      Know how to pilot your kite (section 1 above)

6.      Know that your dead-man safety release system work (section 1 above)

7.      Know how to control the power of your kite (section 2 above)

As a rule of thumb, if you don't know how to launch/land a kite you want to buy and cannot get any launching, landing and relaunching instruction from your kite vendor (or such information is not covered in this web site), refuse to buy the kite as kitesurfing is dangerous enough and you definitely don't need the extra danger of not knowing how to operate your newly purchase kite properly.

Try to practice body dragging at least a couple of times. Use longer lines for body dragging (30 to 50 m). Try to master the following:

1.      Make sure that there is a "friendly" beach straight downwind from where you start.

2.      Launch the kite and get in the water (or get in the water and then launch your kite).

3.      Use the kite's power to body drag yourself across the bay.

4.      Do a number of figure 8 patterns in the left side of the wind window.

5.      Do a number of figure 8 patterns in the right side of the wind window.

6.      Do a number of sine wave patterns on the left side.

7.      Do a number of sine wave patterns on the right side.

8.      Land your kite in deep water and attempt to relaunch it (do this at least a couple of times).

9.      Try your harness system. Try to control your kite while hooking in.

4. Getting Into the Water

Now you are ready to learn how to kitesurf. The best wind to practice in is 12 to 18 knots using the kite size appropriated to your weight. Different kites generate different power. Your kite vendor should be able to provide you with a table describing which kite to use in a certain wind speed. As a generally rule, use a smaller kite with longer lines (around 30 - 40 m) on your first attempt. When the kite is straight above your head, you should feel that the kite is lifting a small portion of your weight. If the kite is not lifting you up at all, you need a bigger kite. If the kite is lifting you up off your feet occasionally, you need a smaller kite.

Get yourself ready in the water using the following steps (this method is written for a right-handed person – with the safety leash attached to the left wrist (or harness) and the board attached to the right side of your harness; reverse the left/right designation for a left-handed person):

1.      Launch the kite (some may prefer to do this in step 4) with the safety release line attached to your left wrist or harness.

2.      Walk into the waist-deep water.

3.      Attach the board leash to your right foot or harness (mandatory for a directional board, optional for a bidirectional board with firm binding). Actually, your harness is the best place to attach the board leash . Attach a metal ring permanently to your harness. At the end of your board leash attach some large marine carabineer which you can easily attach or detach the board leash from the metal ring on your harness.

4.      Launch your kite if you have not done so in step 1 (this is only possible with an inflatable)

5.      Use the kite power to drag you to deeper water (this step may not be necessary).

5. Getting Ready

Now you are in the water holding the control device with the board leash attached to the right side of your harness. The wind is blowing from your back. Do the following steps to get ready for water starting (this method is written for a right-handed person – with the safety leash attached to the left wrist or harness and the board attached to the right side of the harness; reverse the left/right designation for a left-handed person):

1.      Hook the control bar to the harness and control the kite with the left hand (the safety release is attached to your left wrist or harness). The kite should be at zenith during the whole getting ready stage.

2.      Grab the board leash and move the board to the front with your right hand. If going to the left, hold the board by the back foot strap/binding. If going to the right, hold the board by the front foot strap.

3.      For a directional board or bidirectional board with straps and bungees, insert the left foot first then insert the right foot. The right hand should only release the board once the right foot is about to insert into the strap. Use the right hand to pull the bungees over your heels.

4.      It is slightly more complex and difficult if you use high wrap binding as high wrap binding require both hands to get into. It's best to use binding that require only one hand (straps and bungees or sandal binding). Put your right foot on the board between the bindings to balance the board while trying to put your left foot in the binding (with both hand if needed). Repeat the same process with the right foot. Good luck until they make more kitesurfer friendly high wrap binding which only need 1 hand to get in to. If you are using foil, it may be wise to drop the bar to land the kite straight ahead before getting in your bindings. Grab the control bar and relaunch your foil once both of your feet are securely in the bindings.

5.      Hold the control bar with both hands and release it from the harness.

6.      You are now ready to go to step 1 of water starting.

For a bidirectional board, if the board is behind you, simply sink it under your body to move it to the front. The board should not have a lot of volume; otherwise it would be very difficult to do so. The other option is to use the power of the kite to lift you slightly off the water to move the board in front of you (by moving the kite slightly forward to 75 degrees vertically then suddenly move it upward/backward to 85 degrees vertically backward)

6. Water Starting

At this stage, you should have the control device hooked in to your harness; both of your feet are in the footstraps or bindings; the board is in front of you and the wind is blowing from your back. Water start to get on your board using the following steps:

If you are a windsurfer, this step should be fairly easy. You should be able to get on your board after a couple of tries; however, to stay on the board and keep it planning requires more practice.

7. Get Going

Congratulation! You have just completed your first water start. However, to stay on the board and get going will require much more practice. To keep on going use the following steps:

At this stage you will go downwind very fast. Just let your board "go" and do not attempt to fight it. What you want to achieve now is just to be able to stay on your board and just "get going". Just make sure there is a friendly beach straight down wind from where you started and prepare to have a long walk back at the end of your run. Do this until you can get on your board and "go" each time. Practice this in both directions: going out and coming back.

8. Steering the Board

Once you are able to stay on your board and "go" for an extended length of time in both directions a couple of times, you can start thinking of steering your board. Steer the board using the following techniques:

1.      To steer the board downwind (away from the wind, leeward), flatten the board and press more on the front foot. Your body may need to be shifted slightly toward the front of the board.

2.      To steer the board upwind (toward the wind, windward), edge the windward edge of the board - keep the windward rail slightly under the water - and press slightly more on the back foot. The more you edge the windward rail and press on the back foot, the more the board will go upwind. You will need strong pull from the kite to assist going upwind. So you only be able to do this with the kite locked in at 35 to 45 degrees vertically on a strong wind day or while the kite is diving down.

Do a couple runs across the bay and practice your steering. You may want to coordinate your kite movement with your steering. When the kite moves up, steer your board slightly downwind. When the kite moves down, steer your board upwind. Practice this until it becomes "natural" (i.e. you can do it without having to think about it).

9. Going Upwind

Going upwind using the following techniques:

To be able to go upwind does not mean that you can come back to where you start. Each time you fall, the kite will pull you around 20 to 50 m downwind. You have to master the going upwind technique and nail 40 - 50 percent of your jibes before being able to come back to where you start.

10. Jibing

This section is applicable for a 3-strap board directional board or bidirectional board only. Jibing is easier to learn with longer lines around 40 m. As long lines increase the power range of the kite, use a slightly smaller kite than you would normally use for the same condition.

Directional board jibe:

For directional boards, there are a number types of jibe. We will discuss two most common types: windsurfing jibe and snowboarding jibe. When you do a windsurfing jibe, you depower the kite my moving it almost to zenith and then change feet while the board is almost flat. When you do a snowboarding jibe, you use the power of the kite to carve the board continuously and then change feet when the board is fully going in the new direction with proper edging.

Windsurfing jibe:

1.      Press slightly more on the front foot and keep the board slightly flatter to go downwind. Unhook from your harness.

2.      Move the kite backward/upward to 80 to 85 degrees vertically in the other direction.

3.      Take the back foot out of the foot strap and press on the downwind rail of the board to turn it.

4.      Once the board gets pass the wind arrow (the board starts moving in the other direction), move the back foot just behind the front foot straps with toe pointing downwind.

5.      Remove the old front foot off the front strap, turn your body and put it just in front of the back strap (toe pointing down wind). Step 4, 5 and 6 have to be executed with "lightening" speed; otherwise, the board will slow down too much and sink.

6.      Slide the new front foot into the front strap. If you get to this point your jibe is completed, the rest is just "cosmetics" (I sailed very often with my back foot placed just in front of the back strap).

7.      Slide the new back foot into the back foot strap (you can execute this step after step 8).

8.      Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

Snowboarding jibe:

1.      Press slightly more on the front foot and keep the board slightly flatter to go downwind. Unhook from your harness.

2.      Move the kite backward/upward to 60 to 70 degrees vertically in the other direction.

3.      Take the back foot out of the foot strap and press on the downwind rail of the board to turn it.

4.      Carve the board around completely such that you are now sailing in a toe down position (you should be able to keep going with this position for a while if the water is choppy).

5.      If you are overpowered, move your kite up slightly to 80 degrees vertical (this step is normally not needed unless you are way overpowered or not experienced enough)

6.      In one continuous movement: move the old back foot just behind the front footstraps (toe pointing down wind); with the new front foot continuing to edge the new windward rail, remove the old front foot off the front strap; while turning your body, push the board forward (this push is very important) with the new front foot and then place the new back foot (old front foot) just in front of the back strap (toe pointing down wind); slide the new front foot into the front strap. If you get to this point your jibe is completed, the rest is just "cosmetics" (I sailed very often with my back foot placed just in front of the back strap).

7.      Slide the new back foot into the back foot strap (you can execute this step after step 8).

8.      Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

Windsurfing jibe is easier for a beginner; however, snowboarding jibe is easier for a more advanced kitesurfer when the condition is tough (high wind, choppy water, etc.)

There is another type of jibe - call pre-jibe or front jibe - that is very popular with the Hawaiian. The whole idea behind the pre-jibe method is trying to get in to your favored stance as soon as possible.

Learning how to jibe in kitesurfing is actually much easier than in windsurfing. An average kitesurf should be able to nail the first jibe after 5 to 10 hours of practice. However, to nail 80 to 90 percent of your jibe may take longer.

Bidirectional board jibe:

Jibing on a bidirectional board should be very easy as you don't have to complete the jibe and simply fake it to complete the jibe. Furthermore as you don't have to change feet, the successful rate should be much higher than on directional board. Use the following steps to jibe on a bidirectional board.

Toe Turn Jibe:

1. Press slightly more on the front foot and keep the board flatter to go downwind. Unhook from your harness.
2. Move the kite backward/upward.
3. Press on the downwind rail (press your toes) of the board to carve it down wind.
4. When the board is almost straight down wind and the kite is almost straight overhead, press on the back foot and the windward rail to slide the board down wind. The back foot will now ready to become the front foot.
5. Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

Heel Turn Jibe:

1. Move the kite upward and turn your board upwind
2. Shift your weight more to the front foot and start turning the board downwind with the back foot becoming the new front foot
3. Dive the kite in the new direction and press on the "upwind rail" (press your heel) to carve the board to the new direction

11. Toe-down Riding

Toe-down riding is a technique that you must master if you kitesurf on a 2 strap directional board (this type of board is different from the bidirectional kiteboard which allow you to go in both directions in the same heel-down position by simply going backward). This technique is also recommended for a 3-strap directional board or a bidirectional board kitesurfer. It is a very useful technique to learn if you want to do the snowboarding jibe and especially if you want to do wave kitesurfing. Besides, a good all around kitesurfer should be able to kitesurf with all types of board.

It is very difficult to water start in a toe-down position (even thought I have seen a couple expert kitesurfers doing that). To get into a toe-down position, you normally have to get going in a heel-down position and then turn the board around. Use the following steps to turn from a heel-down to a toe down position:

1.      Press slightly more on the front foot and keep the board slightly flatter to go downwind. Unhook from your harness.

2.      Move the kite backward/upward to 60 to 70 degrees vertically in the other direction.

3.      For a 2-strap board, just use your toes to press on the downwind rail of the board to turn it (more weight on front foot to start the turn). For a large 3-strap directional board, take the back foot out of the foot strap and press on the downwind rail of the board to turn it.

4.      Carve the board around completely such that you are now sailing in a toe-down position.

5.      Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

Now you are in a toe-down position, just keep going until you want to change direction. Use almost the same technique to change from toe-down to heel-down riding. If you are riding on a large 3-strap directional board, move the back foot to the center of the board in step 3 before carving the board around:

1.      Press slightly more on the front foot and keep the board slightly flatter to go downwind. Unhook from your harness.

2.      Move the kite backward/upward to 60 to 70 degrees vertically in the other direction.

3.      For a 2-strap board, just use your heels to press on the downwind rail of the board to turn it (more weight on front foot to start the turn). For a large 3-strap board, move the back foot to the center of the board to turn it (the front foot actually makes the board turn).

4.      Carve the board around completely such that you are now sailing in a heel-down position.

5.      Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

6.      If you are riding on a 3-strap board, you may want to insert the back foot into the back strap.

If you have never done wakeboarding or snowboarding, this is a major achievement. Congratulation! If you kitesurf mostly on a 3 strap directional board, now is the time to try a smaller 2 strap board on a super high wind day.

12. Kitesurfing in an Overpowered Situation

No matter how you select the size of your kite, sooner or latter, you will encounter a situation when you are completely overwhelmed by the power of your kite. If you are using a 4-line ram air kite, you can depower the kite by temporarily pulling on both of the brake lines. If you are using a 4-line inflatable kite, you can depower by sheeting out or by hooking into the trim loop (chicken loop) and moving the control bar away from you (which will change the angle of attack of the kite by releasing the back lines). If you are using a 2-line kite, the situation is much more difficult. You cannot depower your kite using your 2-line control bar. The only way you can lessen the pull of your kite is to fly it near the edge of the wind window. There are only two places where you can fly the kite to lessen its pull: near the upper edge and near the forward edge of the wind window.

1.      You can lessen the power of your kite by flying it near the upper edge of the wind window. However, the highest angle you can fly your kite is around 60 degrees vertically. Beyond that, the kite will tend to lift you up and make it harder to go upwind. So if you are overpowered and want to go down wind, just fly the kite higher (60 to 75 degrees vertically)

2.      The second way to lessen the pull of your kite is to fly it at the forward edge of the wind window. It is easy in theory; however, to get the kite to the forward edge of the wind window in an overpowered situation is a major achievement. Normally, when the kite pulled, it's in the middle of the flight path to the forward edge of the wind window. If you yield to the pull and go down wind, the kite and the board will travel fast (probably at the same speed) down wind such that the kite is constantly in the middle of the flight path to the forward edge of the wind window. It's a vicious circle: the more the kite pull, the more you go down wind, the more the kite will continue to pull (because the kite would never be able to get to the edge of the wind window). It's worst when you are in an overpowered situation; you will move down wind faster in a constant overpowered situation! The only way to "fight" the pull of the kite is to go upwind. Fight the kite's pull with whatever you have: your weight, your muscles and your board. Let the kite carry your entire weight; use your legs to edge the board very hard and turn it way upwind. If you fight hard enough, your board will slow down and the kite will "reach" the edge of the forward wind window. Once it's there, the pull will lessen and you can control both the board and the kite better if you keep on going in the same upwind direction. Don't point your board downwind or move your kite to get into another overpowered situation. You will be in for another upwind fight again. Going upwind is the best way to kitesurf in an overpowered situation. Keep your kite between 10 to 30 degrees vertically. In this position, the kite will help you to edge the windward edge of the board more effectively.

13. Kitesurfing in an Underpowered Situation

No matter how you select the size of your kite, sooner or latter, you will encounter a situation when you are a couple of miles out in the open water and the wind drops. You simply do not have enough power to kitesurf. Use the following techniques to get yourself to shore with some decency:

1.      If the underpowered situation is temporarily (e.g. a lull), simply drop your body backward into the water. While in the water, edge the windward rail of the board. Your body and the board will create some resistance such that you will not be drifting downwind fast by the pull of the kite.

2.      If it seems like the wind will never come up again, go downwind. The only way to kitesurf in an underpowered situation is to go downwind. Don't even attempt to point your board upwind.

3.      Bend your knees and move your body closer to the center of your board.

4.      Move the kite continuously to generate power. Use the figure 8 pattern for more power and use the sine wave pattern for less downwind drift.

5.      Always use longer lines (40 m) if the wind fluctuates frequently in your area. Longer lines give you the needed power in an underpowered situation.

6.      If your kite cannot even fly, wind the lines in and hold your kite with both of your hands to use it as a sail to get back to shore.

14. Beach Starting

Beach starting is an advance move in kitesurfing. Try beach starting only when you are very comfortable with your equipment.

1.      Attach the control bar to the harness and control the kite with one hand. The kite should be at zenith during the whole process.

2.      Grab the board leash and move the board to the front with your free hand.

3.      Insert the front foot into the front strap.

4.      Grab the control bar with both hands, unhook and dive the kite forward to get going.

15. Jumping

You can jump voluntarily in kitesurfing. Try jumping using the following steps:

1.      Dive the kite down to move the board very fast.

2.      Suddenly move the kite upward and backward to zenith.

3.      Bend your knee and edge hard on the windward rail.

4.      When you feel the kite pulling you sufficiently (the same feeling as when you are overpowered), suddenly release the rail and extend you knee to jump. You should be airborne at this moment.

5.      While airborne, try to move the board in front of you and keep the kite slightly forward to have enough power to get going upon landing.

16. Landing

Landing smoothly consistently is somewhat optional in kitesurfing (especially when you are learning new tricks); however, it is a must in kitesnowboarding unless you want to break your bones. Landing smoothly also looks very stylist in kitesurfing so make sure you can do so all the time.

17. Tacking

Tacking is a very advanced move in kitesurfing. Use the following steps to tack your board:

1.      Dive the kite down to move the board very fast.

2.      Move the kite upward to zenith.

3.      Bend you knee and edge hard on the windward rail.

4.      Release the rail and extend your knee. You should be airborne at this moment.

5.      Rotate the board 180 degrees toward the back. The board is pointing to the new direction. You are facing the wind and the kite is at zenith.

6.      Turn around by moving your front leg just before the back straps (with toe pointing down wind).

7.      Move your back foot and insert it in the new front strap.

8.      Slide the new back foot into the back strap.

9.      Dive the kite in the new forward direction to get going.

18. Looping